Kibuye town is situated a little less than 3 hours northwest of Kigali by mini-bus or matatu. Sadly, this small town is most renowned for its unsavoury past- 90% of the Tutsi population here fell victim to the brutal genocide of 1994. A memorial at the church provides one of Rwanda’s most poignant reminders of the atrocities, a site where 14,000 people were hiding out before their eventual deaths.
The mass graves which envelop the hillside also ensure that such horror is never forgotten. Whilst always remembering its tragic history, today Kibuye holds bright prospects. Its stunning location on the shores of Lake Kivu is attracting visitors from Kigali and beyond, becoming a regular weekend retreat for wealthy Rwandans and ex-pats alike.
Arriving in Kibuye, you could do a lot worse than taking a boda boda straight to Bethanie Guesthouse, just to the west of town. Situated on the shores of a narrow peninsula jutting into Lake Kivu, Bethanie Guesthouse enjoys near perfect surroundings. All rooms face the waterfront in any of three directions, and you step out of your door to meet gorgeous views across the lake into the hills. Volcanic gas levels in the water are low enough to ensure safe swimming but at the same time high enough to keep the tepid water bilharzia free: it just demands that you swim.
This is a feature that is drawing more visitors to the area instead of the previously more fashionable Gisenyi. Water sports and lake activity on this area of the water are growing steadily. One of the few drawbacks at Bethanie is the lack of any real beach on this side of the lake- there is little between the restaurant terrace and the water’s edge. On the plus side, a cold beverage awaits you when you swim ashore. Sitting by the water’s edge with an evening beer as the sun goes down is certainly an activity you’ll want to repeat.
Bethanie Guesthouse provides good value and basic accommodation, in what is a 5-star setting. Both dorms and more private rooms are available. The double/twin rooms are spacious, equipped with mosquito nets and have en-suite bathrooms. There is hot water (although not gallons of it), and power is provided by generator up to 10.00pm. Whichever of three directions your room faces, you are never far from the water’s edge and spectacular views into the commanding hills.
Its remote location makes Bethanie a striking retreat, though of course it means the conveniences of Kibuye town are not next door. The lodge lies a half-hour walk alongside another of the lake’s attractive inlets or 5 minute boda boda ride outside of the town. Reception will happily call you a taxi or boda boda, both of which arrive promptly.
All meals can be ordered in the restaurant although from a menu that is simple and fresh. Delicious dishes are served at very low prices- this particularly applies to breakfast. Additionally, the staff are extremely friendly and try their utmost to accommodate special requests.
There are internet facilities available but the service is dependent on a less than regular connection. Afternoons usually offer the best chance of success but be wary of its high demand due to the many business conferences held here. This is an ideal spot to relax and take in the views or take a trip in a dhow across the lake with a local fisherman. Simply strike up a conversation (and a deal) with one of the fisherman on the shoreline. There are some beautiful islands to paddle around which also host some of Rwanda’s fascinating bird life. Chartered boats will also take you across to Congo on the northern shore of the lake.
Kibuye is somewhere you will come for a weekend but will want to stay longer, and you certainly should. Whether you wish to relax with a book in a scenic location or take advantage of the lake and explore this beautiful area, you will not find more comfortable or friendly surroundings than at Bethanie Guesthouse.
Bethanie Guesthouse
Tel: 568509
Email: bethanie(at)epr.org.rw
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