and probably the best remaining example of a forest type that once dominated the Albertine Rift. Covering more than 1000 square kilometers of seriously rugged terrain that spans altitudes from 1600 to 2950 meters, the park and its breathtaking forest is a genuinely rare and precious resource. Until now, it’s been one that has been hard to visit for lack of accommodation and somewhat limited activities. Luckily, that’s all beginning to change. The tracker Anastase Semana, urges caution as we depart from the well maintained Rukuzi trail, and descend a steep slope through dense brush. I all but careen down the slope. Finally we emerge before a great umugote tree, whose leaves are rustling with the antics of more than a dozen monkeys. I catch my breath and watch as blue monkeys, mountain monkeys (L’hoest’s), and mangabeys jump from branch to branch, stuffing fruits into their little maws.“Ils sont sortie,” says Anastase, disappointed that the chimpanzees, which were here just twenty minutes ago, have fled the scene. I actually don’t mind, as it would be almost disappointing to find them this easily. After all, chimp tracking in Nyungwe is supposed to be hard-core, right? After I get my fill of the monkey-melange (these are just 3 of Nyungwe’s impressive 13 primate species), we carry on towards “the pines,” or the buffer zone area a few kilometers and many meters in elevation from where we now stand. As we trudge up a steep hill towards the pines, I hear voices. Two young boys emerge from behind a row of maize, smiling and singing what I’m told is a song of greeting. The valley below and hillsides opposite are part of Banda village, evidenced by the cultivated patchwork of banana, maize, and cassava.

As we continue, I spy the small community tourism site that has recently been established along Banda’s northern edge, adjacent to the forest. Including a traditional home and “King’s Palace,” both built largely from reeds, a tidy campsite with about 8 tents with mattresses for hire, basic ablutions, a grassy area with benches and tables enjoying a great view, and a small restaurant where cool drinks and snacks and even full meals can be purchased, the community tourism area is brand new and well worth a visit from the looks of it. The cooperative that built the site welcomes visitors with a warm and energetic traditional drumming and dancing session. Although the site is quite a hike from the main road (walking from the tarmac road down the 4x4 track to Banda could take up to 2 hours, depending on your fitness and luggage), it has the distinct advantage of being very close to the area where the largest group of semi-habituated chimpanzees often is found. The site also helps fill a much needed accommodation gap in the park, and is located far enough from village life that tourists can just relax and enjoy the views.

For those interested in engaging with the village, the cooperative (with the help of the NGO Kageno) has created a 1-2 hour community walk, which takes tourists through Banda, stopping off at houses where banana-beer-making, maize-grinding, blacksmithing, and traditional medicine preparation are performed and explained. Unfortunately there’s no beer in my future. I follow Anastase up and down more unforgiving hills until we’re back in the forest. He picks up the pace as we bushwhack through thick vegetation. Suddenly he stops and I hear the low “hoo” of a chimpanzee. Little do I know it’s a parting call. We fail to even glimpse the creature, which has, the rest of the trackers (always many steps ahead) tell us, gone to join the rest of the group, back where we started. I need a sandwich.

Happily the good people at the Gisakura Guesthouse have provided me with a hefty packed lunch. After many years, Gisakura is no longer the only place for tourists to find food and lodging in Nyungwe. On the other end of the spectrum from the community campsite is the new Nyungwe Forest Lodge, built by Dubai World a few kilometers from Giaskura. Situated in a tea field on the edge of the forest proper, the lodge enjoys fabulous views from all sides. Intelligent design also means that there are multiple lovely outdoor and indoor (a key feature in this oftenrainy part of the world) spots from which to enjoy the magical misty forest views while also keeping toasty warm by one of the many slate fireplaces. With 24 double chalets, the lodge is not too big, which is in keeping with its exclusive ultra-luxurious vibe and pricetag. Gorgeous indigenous landscaping, an overflow
heated pool looking into the forest, and quirky touches like a tea-ball chandelier add hip elegance. Definitely the place to be for those who can afford it. And word has it that yet another lodge will open this year. Accessed through Gisakura town, it sits atop a spit of land that enjoys its own amazing views of Lake Kivu (clouds permitting), the tea-estates and thousand hills surrounding, and the forest to the northeast. Intended to meet the high-mid range market, it looks set to position itself as the place to drop in for a good meal and a beer, and, of course, a lovely night’s sleep. It’s nearly midday, and we are back where we started on the Rukuzi trail. Anastase urges me to run. Literally. After a l0 minute jog, I see the trackers clustered on the path before it rounds a bend and reemerges on the other side of a small valley. On that other side, in clear view, are 5 chimpanzees, hanging out, lolling around, picking nits from each other’s fur, scratching armpits, and, well, being chimps. It is marvelous.

One of the guides hands me a laminated color booklet, which identifies several of the individuals in this group, known as the Mayebe group. The park has been improving the information provided to visitors about its flora and fauna, and this book is just one (much appreciated) example. Another is the new visitor’s center at Uwinka, scheduled to open in the first quarter of 2010.

Designed by the graphic designers at New York City’s Bronx Zoo, the center includes fantastic new tri-lingual interpretive displays describing Nyungwe’s natural riches, history, and people. It also now includes a small canteen, and acts as the trailhead for all of the major trails departing from this area. Among those trails is another very exciting new development: a rainforest canopy walkway.

If tracking chimpanzees or the huge troop of black and white colobus monkeys through rugged forest is all a bit too much for you, the canopy walkway will provide a different sort of thrill of a lifetime. Constructed 40 meters above the ground, the walkway allows visitors to be eye level with the birds and monkeys that tend to inhabit the upper stories of the forest. Stretching 90 meters across a steep valley, the walkway loops around to a viewpoint platform. With its dizzying vantage point and novelty factor, it promises to put Nyungwe firmly on the tourism map where it rightfully belongs.

For more information contact: Lee Middleton
Mobile; +27 (0) 76 238 1038
Email: lee@stare.com