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Cruising the Delta of Murchison Falls National Park

We arrive at the river a little after six-thirty in the morning, a slow drifting steam floats above the swirling currents of the Nile as it flows downstream past the ferry crossing at Paraa. Our guide met us beneath the acacia tree in the parking area and welcomed us down onto the jetty and into our waiting boat. The air was cool and it felt really beautiful to enjoy the coolness of morning before the sun warmed up the air as we pushed off from the jetty a few minutes before seven and the skipper angled his craft downstream toward the delta. This was it, I have lived in Uganda a good number of years now and been in Murchison Falls National Park several times to enjoy the waterfall cruise and even the walk up to the Top of the Falls, but I had never taken the opportunity of joining a boat cruise down to the delta, where the Victoria Nile empties itself into Lake Albert before continuing its 6000 km journey northwards to the sea.

Deo, our guide stood up at the front of the boat and his colleague and skipper cut the engine while he introduced himself and we received a short briefing on the trip. The silence was golden. Magical morning light in pale pastels warmed slowly as the sun rose silently out of the steaming river behind us. From the bank we could hear the raucous angry shout of baboons as they woke and started their daily trek, hippos languished lazily in slow-moving eddies along the bank, lazily flicking their stubby tails and grunting sleepily to one another, as if to warn their downstream neighbors of the approaching invaders.

After a moment to enjoy the early morning silence and the perfect colours of a Nile River sunrise, Tabu, the skipper, started the engine and we idled slowly and gently downstream, following the contours of the north bank and scanning the shore for any sign of wildlife down at the river at this most perfect time of day. Pied Kingfishers were already flying busily along the banks, swooping up to hover above the swirling waters and every now and then dive-bombing down into the stream before bobbing up, shaking their heads and flying off to start their fishing run again. Black and white Colobus sprawled lazily across some branches of an acacia tree overhanging the water, their long bright bottlebrush tails glowing in the early sunlight; elegant egrets standing silently on slender legs peering into the water along the grassy banks while a group of heavy Cape Buffalo bulls stare suspiciously at us as we were swept downstream with the current.

Waterbuck and warthog were also out early as we enter a hidden channel through one of the islands. A herd of female waterbuck and their young were leaping across the shallow channel in a cascading rush of hooves and wet hair before running a short distance ahead of the boat to stop and stare back at us with large wet-brown eyes over shiny heart-shaped noses. Herons and hippos waded through the shallows that fringed the channel and when Tabu cut the engine from time to time to drift quietly with the current, it really felt as if time had stood still. Our journey continued down and beyond the flat grassy islands that teased us with glimpses of grey and the sudden excitement of seeing that so rare and peculiar bird the Shoebill, only to realise that the grey was the grey on the shoulders of beautifully long Goliath Herons as they stood poised in the reeds vigilantly scanning the ripples and eddies for any unsuspecting something to snack on. Below these grassy reed-fringed islands the boat took us down long curving avenues of papyrus, their slender stalks swaying together in the wake of the boat and Papyrus Gonolek, chuckling and hooting at us from deep inside the Papyrus stands. A massive crocodile bank, not a massive bank at all really, just massive Nile crocodile, smiling brutishly and emotionless at us as our boat turns silently on the current drifting quietly past them so as not to disturb these archaic leviathans.

Through these swaying papyrus islands, we continue to where the papyrus islands separate and subdivide into a myriad of small and smaller channels, but not before idling easily through what appeared to be the middle of the most enormous school of hippo– feeling the trepidation of being within what feels like only a very few metres of that animal often quoted as being the biggest killer in Africa! It does seem hard to believe when you look at their mouse round ears twiddling round in rapid little circles as they breach alongside the boat and breathe easily and deeply through their unusually shaped nostrils. They seem so placid, so social, so very interested in our passing, other passengers and I alike, holding our breath almost as we cruise gently past their collective sleeping spot. Into the tiny channels now and we understand that here the delta is reaching its widest point and although still following the northern shoreline we round a bend where suddenly the twisting channel opens up onto expansive, wide-open lily flats on the verge of Lake Albert.

Fishermen from villages across the lake tend to their nets and draw hard on their paper rolled cigarettes, huddled in small groups under the shade of small papyrus islands. Next to the fisherman, egrets and pelicans and storks and gulls are all busy tapping into the richness of the delta. Gulls bobbing in small disorganised flocks of white and black with streaks of red and yellow in amongst the white, the pelicans, so poised on the water, turning and paddling so easily in their fishing spots – dipping in and dipping out in fluid smooth movements of their long beaks. The egrets looking jealously from the shallows as they wait in ambush for fish, frogs, bugs – you know, egret stuff.

We nose forward slowly across these lily flats following one of the main channels that empty into Lake Albert. About one kilometre offshore the skipper guns the engine up to cruising speed and we are seemingly flying across the millpond mirage surface of Lake Albert. We cruise a good two kilometres out into the middle of the lake before Tabu slows the engine and turns off. Through the misty haze across the lake surface villages and villagers can be seen on the shore, conical grass huts in small clusters, spaced out along the shoreline with their landing areas lined with canoes and brightly colored shirts and jerrycans. Children and dogs and a flight of snow-white birds winging along the shoreline, and all in front of the looming mountains of Congo folding out behind and beyond the villages.

The middle of Lake Albert…or that part in the middle where we now find ourselves is surreal. I can imagine a very different Lake Albert on a windy day with its reputation for sinking boats and vicious whipping storms that blow across the massive sheet of water from the Blue Mountains in Congo, but today it is still. Mirror smooth, the lake stretches away to the south in a curving bent image where the horizon melts into a hazy blue-grey mirage of togetherness, a union of water and sky broken only by black dots in the distance, moving so slowly within the mirage that they almost seem to be standing still. Without a word we sit and contemplate the scenery before us. In the silence and the stillness of the lake we have found a timelessness; a sense of being so far away and out of everything. No engine noises, no pedestrians, no aircraft high above us – nothing. Everything is natural and plain and perfect – birds, hippos, fishermen…and tranquillity.

The boat engines sudden guttural sputter broke me away from my reflection, and the boat turned in a long sweeping turn as we pick up speed and make our way back toward the shoreline, searching for the hidden channel that had emptied us out onto the lake. Tabu finds the entrance to the channel and we forge our way back into and against the current. The sun is high now and once over the shallow delta shelf, the breeze as we pick up the speed we need to take us back is welcome – a cool drink, amazing views, and some of my favourite people on board the boat with me. It truly does feel special to have had a glimpse into the beauty, the natural richness and the absolute natural perfection of this most very special and unique wilderness area in Uganda.

For information on Boat Safaris at Murchison Falls,
Please contact:
Murchison Falls Boats
Mobile: +256 773 897275 / +256 702 152928
Email: murchisonboats@wildfrontiers.co.ug

Domestic Tourism in Rwanda

It was on Friday the 3^rd of May that I drove South East of Kigali to Nyungwe Forest National Park specifically to Nyungwe Forest Lodge for the weekend. I learnt that Nyungwe covers over 1000 square kilometres and is home to over 290 bird species. It’s also true that Nyungwe “is the largest Afro-montane forest in East and Central Africa and one of the most ancient dating back to before the ice age”, rich in biodiversity with “over 250 different types of trees and shrubs” in addition to rare primates like the chimpanzee, Angola Colubus, and the Blue monkey.

I was fortunate enough to meet a colleague who works with a wildlife conservation project. This knowledgeable gentleman shared with me some literature and history about Nyungwe. Everything was so fascinating that I started wondering why I have never considered visiting any park.

It’s from that moment that I realized that the only possible reason most of us don’t spend our disposable incomes on visiting local tourist attractions and sites is absolute ignorance. We seem not to know what is on offer and to some extent, the Rwanda Tourist Agency has not done enough to promote domestic tourism as it has for the ‘high end ‘ tourists from abroad who can afford to pay 200 -300 US$ at the various hotels and lodges.

In my opinion, domestic tourism is very vital for the tourism industry. It’s always easier for some countries which promote both local and international tourism especially during periods of low international arrivals. Most countries go as far as reducing hotel and tour rates during such periods and therefore attract local groups and families who enjoy the beauties of their own countries at very affordable costs. This way, their industries remain operational and residents do not only enjoy but also become knowledgeable about the tourism sectors of their nations.

In the case of Rwanda, I acknowledge the relentless efforts of many who believe in this ideology. We are not yet there but there are signs that we shall one day achieve our target. However, as we collectively plan to promote domestic tourism, I recommend that we put our emphasis on the youth and encourage tourism operators to construct student centres in national parks and other tourist destinations.

At Queen Elizabeth National Park in western Uganda, you often find busloads of school and college students on tour. They don’t stay in Mweya Lodge with other tourists but in hostels with double-decker beds nearby, at a low cost. Similar facilities are enjoyed by Kenyans in Tsavo National Park and many other European countries where student centres have accommodation where the beds are triple dickers.

This is one of the many ways of making tourism affordable to locals. What the operators possibly lose in cost per unit, they gain in numbers and at the same time promote the industry as the students are future clients of the industry. It is important to note that these centres can be used by other groups who may wish to cost-cut on accommodation and food. Another notable feature of domestic tourism is campsite facilities where groups can pitch a tent and prepare meals for themselves at a reasonable cost while enjoying the full benefits of their tour.

I call upon all stakeholders to participate in this cause by organizing forums to educate the general public about the benefits of tourism and eradicate the misconception that it is for only the rich and more so for foreigners.

I commend the tremendous work done by Rwanda Development Board and other players who intend to make this a reality in Rwanda. The Tourism Agency has `set the agenda in relation to preferential treatment of locals through park entry fees. For example, Park Entry Fees for Akagera National Park for nationals is 1000 Rwanda francs, 5 US$ for foreign residents and 10 US$ for foreign visitors. I encourage the operators to also work out viable methods of encouraging locals to benefit from the industry.

To the general public, this beautiful land of a thousand hills belongs to you all, please enjoy it and let’s all set the platform for our children and great-grandchildren to emulate us. My drive to Nyungwe was a smooth one due to the improved road infrastructure that can enable even non-four -wheel drive cars to access the park.

We are always better together, we can do this

Tour Burundi: Keeping a Car on the Road

Written by Sandra Shibura

The ability to keep a car on the road depends largely on the driver’s driving skills, the state of the wheels, the state of the suspension parts, and generally the condition of the car being driven. In this article, we are writing about vehicle vibrations, wheel balancing, wheel alignment, and taking care of suspension on a regular basis.

Bujumbura was nicknamed by the people that reside in it as Buja la Belle meaning Buja the beauty. Generally, due to its location, climate, size, beauty, positioning, people, and ambiance, Buja is regarded as one of the most beautiful capitals in East Africa. It draws most of these factors from her proximity to the famous Lake Tanganyika.

The History

Bujumbura was been created in 1897 by western missionaries. At that time the city was named “Usumbura”. Usumbura was not occupied at all because of the very old legend where it is said that the King was forbidden to see the Lake. This legend was further complicated by the serious bouts of malaria given that Usumbura was located in a plain alongside Lake Tanganyika. The missionaries brought with them some workers from Tanzania. It is these workers that are believed to be the first occupants of the city. In 1916 when the Germans lost the war, the Belgians became the administrators of Ruanda-Urundi and decided that Bujumbura will be the administrative and political capital of Ruanda-Urundi.

Bujumbura was strategically placed and had an excellent climate with access to Congo. The Belgians decided to build a harbor in Bujumbura to stimulate business between Congo, Tanzania, and Zambia. During the period of the Belgian Mandate, the Governor of Ruanda-Urundi gave to Bujumbura a special Status because they did not use the same laws as was done in other parts of the country. It is believed that the Belgian Administrative officers wanted to separate Bujumbura from Burundi to form an international zone, but the Mwami of Burundi Mwezi Gisabo refused. In 1962, when Burundi got her independence, the name changed to Bujumbura.

Bujumbura and her Life
Bujumbura lies in the low lands at the foot of the Western Rift Valley along the shores of Lake Tanganyika. Whatever means you use to come into Bujumbura the first impression is of a Capital lying alongside the magnificent Lake Tanganyika. The Discovery of Bujumbura will start with a visit to the Central Market located in the city center where, you will find everything you need so as to enjoy your stay in Bujumbura. The Market is modern and organized with colorful designs but you will not miss the noise, the crowds negotiating up to the last penny, and the aroma from the restaurants around. Be sure to visit the main street where you can buy all kinds of electronics and due to the activities in the place the Police are all over to ensure safety and security.
By the time you finish your activities in the central market and the busy main street, we suggest you take a small break and go for a coffee and a small snack at places such as:

•  “ Geny’s Café”
•  “Aroma”
•  “Rusco Plaza”,

Be rest assured that you will enjoy the quality of Burundian coffee.

After a small break, you should go to visit “Le Musée vivant” which is an animal museum. At this time the sun will be up and a bit hot. Furthermore, most people go home for a siesta so it should be time to go back to your hotel. Most hotels in the city center have swimming pools, but there is no harm in visiting Lake Tanganyika where you will have a choice between swimming, sailing, or eating the excellent fish.

The city center is dotted with hotels and you can choose among the hotels as listed under the accommodation section of this magazine. Along Lake Tanganyika, you will have a variety of hotels of different standards and prices but we recommend that you visit Saga Plage, Royal Palm Resort, and Club Hotel Tanganyika.

On the hills overlooking Bujumbura, you can find the burial site of Burundian Independence hero Prince Rwagasore and you can also have a clear view of the city by visiting Le Belvedere and Chez Vaya. There are many places to dine and these include restaurants in the city center and hotels that serve Burundi’s fresh food that include fish like “Mukeke”, “Sangala” or “Indagala”. Some of these places include; Botanika, Roca Golf Hotel, Oasis, Chez Béa traiteur, Le Safran, Kiboko Grill at Ubuntu Residence, Bora Bora Beach Club, La Vigne, Pasta Comedia, Chez Andre, Taj Mahal and Le Kasuku. Once full of the noise in the market, fish at the above restaurants, the sky in Buja gets dark and it is time to enjoy for few hours of “Buja by night” at some very special places such as: Makki, Havana, Chez Kuta, and Cappuccino. However, if your interests are about dancing then the place to be is: Club Havana, Au Monocle, Get Up, and Ruhara.

About the Writer:
Sandra Shibura is the Proprietor of Authentic Burundi Tour and can be reached on +25779710576 or Sandra@ab-tour.com or www.ab-tour.com

Nyungwe Forest Lodge

We had often heard of Nyungwe Forest Lodge is a 5-star establishment. A 5-star establishment in Nyungwe National Park. How exciting. My wife and I decided we must go and try it out. And so we made reservations through Primate Safaris and drove to Nyungwe Forest.

The drive is not long from Kigali, it took us approx. 3 hours and most of the road is really good. We left in the morning and our plan was to be there for lunch. The lodge is just a few kilometers from the main road and the access road leading up to the lodge from the main road is also good. Definitely saloon car accessible if anyone does not have access to a four-wheel drive. Arriving at the lodge we were impressed by its beautiful surroundings. The lodge is built just on the edge of a tea plantation overlooking the extremely dense and beautiful Nyungwe forest. The area is so tranquil we almost felt like we were a million miles from civilization.

The lodge boasts 24 luxury rooms, of which 15 are King size bedded luxury rooms, 7 are twin bedded luxury rooms, and 2 are King bedded suites. All the rooms and suites are facing the forest and each has its own balcony. We opted for the King size bedded luxury room. The cost of one night at Nyungwe Forest Lodge for my wife and me was US$ 400 per night. We did inquire about the suite but at a price of US$ 600, we felt it was too high. Prices include lunch, dinner, breakfast, and selected beverages. We felt this price was extremely high and was definitely of what a 5-star establishment would normally charge but would Nyungwe live up to its star rating. Would it be worth it?

Upon arrival, we were given hot towels to clean our hands. Check-in was a breeze and we were immediately shown to our room. Our room was spacious and well equipped with more than sufficient amenities you would need at a forest lodge. We had a small balcony overlooking the Nyungwe forest but since the forest is so dense there is not much to see. The bathroom, I have to say was one of the most beautiful bathrooms I have seen in any hotel room. The bathtub was in front of a window overlooking the bedroom, a separate shower unit with a large shower head, a separate toilet enclosure, and his and her hand washbasins with a huge mirror. Overall the layout of the bathroom was superb and we were very impressed by the bedroom as well.

Once we were settled in we made our way to the main lodge where the dining area is. We had lunch on the verandah overlooking the lodge rooms, the tea plantations, Nyungwe Forest, and the mountains in the far distance. Lunch was mediocre. We were expecting much better for the amount we had paid and for the 5-star rating. I have eaten much better meals visiting quite a few safari lodges in Uganda, Kenya, and Tanzania. After lunch, my wife had booked a spa treatment for herself. I opted for a swim and a nice cold drink by the poolside and my wife was going to join me after Health Review her spa, however, our excitement was short-lived. The solar heating for the pool was not working and the temperature was a bit too chilly for me to dive into the cold water. Due to the high altitude of Nyungwe Forest, the temperatures are generally low (1600m to 3000m above sea level). We were extremely disappointed the pool heating was not working and this was our first major setback at Nyungwe Forest Lodge. We did express our disappointment to the staff but there was not much they could do except apologize. This left me to take a small walk around the lodge to explore a bit more of what this lodge had to offer after which I retreated to the balcony in my room to relax and listen to the sounds of the forest while my wife went for her spa.

There are activities for people with more energy than us. The lodge offers trekking for Chimpanzee, Black and White Colobus Monkey, Grey Cheeked Mangabey, Blue Monkey, and Golden Monkey. There are also swamp walks, waterfall walks, bird-watching walks, cultural area walks, and various guided walking trails which can take anywhere from 1 hour to 7 hours. As I am not such a fan of the above options I opted out of the activities, however, I have heard from various sources that the bird watching walks are worth it. Apparently, there are over 275 bird species in the Nyungwe forest. This is bird watchers paradise. By late afternoon my wife was back from her spa which I am glad to say she would thoroughly recommend to anyone. The lady giving her the spa treatment had extensive experience in various treatments unlike many lodges/resorts/hotels which advertise spa treatments and you end up getting just an oily massage. The spa room itself is beautifully positioned overlooking the Nyungwe Forest.

In the evening we headed up to the main lodge dining area and as the weather was not permitting we could not eat on the verandah as we did for lunch. We opted for the main indoor dining hall. Before we went into the dining hall we sat in the lounge area and had a few drinks and went through the wonderful selection of Africa safari books they had. We ordered for dinner from the lounge and when our meals were ready we were politely ushered to the dining hall. Dinner again was mediocre. I was starting to get disappointed with the food as I am a food lover and I enjoy eating but I didn’t enjoy the lunch and dinner I had so far. Again the question of the 5-star rating comes into play and you wonder whether the food was actually representative of a 5-star establishment.

We had asked for the fireplace in our room to be turned on during the evening but we were told that if it is raining the smoke from the fireplace would not be able to exit the chimney properly and the smoke might end up back in our room. This again showed either a design fault or the staff member we spoke to not bothered to go to our room and turn on our fireplace in the pouring rain? I was hoping it was not the latter as the staff so far were very helpful. After dinner, we had a hot bath and the feeling of relaxation, once you are inside of a bathtub, was great. We rarely have a bath, much prefer a shower but having a bath in this modern-designed bathroom reminds you of why you go to a lodge. To relax and unwind. And this bathroom allows you to do just that.

The next day we were woken by the wonderful sounds of monkeys and birds near our room. Once again we felt a million miles from civilization and it was a great feeling. We had a wonderful, relaxing, lazy breakfast on the verandah after which my wife opted for another spa treatment and I sat about admiring the beautiful view from the main lodge. Again my wife enjoyed the spa treatment.

We then set off back to Kigali having had a very relaxing one night. Would I go there again? Not for this price. I felt there were not many activities if you are not a bird or chimpanzee fan and the solar heating for the pool not working is a major disappointment. Would I go back at half the price? Possibly would then consider. There are however quite a few lodges opening in Rwanda and I hear at much more reasonable prices so Nyungwe Forest Lodge might have its work cut out to attract clients. Nevertheless, it is a beautiful lodge in a superb location with great facilities, a great spa, and great staff. It just needs a few more activities and a solar heated pool and a more
reasonable room rate.

Gorillas in the Clouds in Bwindi Forest, Uganda

Every bend, from behind the medicinal smelling eucalyptus trees, in the doorways of ramshackle mud houses, and on the edges of the deep red earth farm fields, overflowing with flowering potato buds and stacks of thin poles waiting for climbing beans, pointed upright, heavenward, as if already in prayer for a good harvest year. Our used plastic water bottles are the ever-smiling kids’ prize, which may be used to hold liquid, but are just as likely about to be transformed into a plastic model car or other toys which will see years of use clambering up and down these impossibly steep green hills.

I caught a lift up the mountain skirting the Southern edge of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park with Mark Mwine, the always animated Regional Enterprise Officer with the International Gorilla Conservation Program (IGCP), a Rwanda-based NGO dedicated to saving one of the world’s most endangered great apes. The largest of all primates, only 720 of these magnificent and gentle creatures remain, clinging to life on the steep smoky slopes of the Virunga Volcano range straddling three East-Central African countries recently troubled by conflict and civil strife: Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

This region skirting Africa’s Great Rift Valley has seen a renaissance of peace and prosperity lately, with Rwanda rapidly becoming East Africa’s IT hub, and Uganda’s economy continuing to outperform the majority of those on the rest of the continent. Though the Congo lags, with its complex civil war still simmering, infrastructure and communications in Bwindi and neighboring Volcanoes National Park are good, and tourists have been flocking increasing numbers to witness Africa’s gentle giants in one of the world’s most spectacular settings – a true “gorillas in the mist” adventure.

“Working with communities is a challenge, but a challenge we need to manage in order for them to own conservation, and this can be achieved through access to tangible benefits from conservation activities,” explains Mark as we dodge fattened, braying goats and local mamas heading to the fields, tiny babies in tow secured snugly to their backs with slings made
from wildly patterned bright cloth. He is explaining one of the concepts underpinning Clouds, a newly opened luxury gorilla tourism lodge perched at the top of our mountain destination in the village of Nkuringo. Opened with little fanfare in September 2008, Clouds represents the next step in the evolution of gorilla conservation.

With support from IGCP and the African wildlife Foundation and building and management from the local Uganda Safari Company, Clouds is owned and operated by the Nkuringo community and surrounding villages.
“The Nkuringo Community Conservation and Development Fund (NCDF) includes 30,000 people in 23 local villages, and in addition to benefiting the local communities, it is designed to expose tourists to local people and culture” explains the eager NCDF coordinator Felix Byomuhangi in his simple office, which doubles as a craft shop, across the rocky road from the Bwindi National Park office near the mountain’s summit.

At this elevation, the sun dripped fields of plenty have slowly been swallowed by the clouds and mist, temperatures noticeably dropping several degrees. As the puffy grey sky threatens rain, Felix spells out what the aptly named Clouds Lodge brings to local people: a portion of each night’s stay goes to projects such as water tanks, schools, roads, sheep, cow and pig raising, potato farming, tree planting and a number of other relevant community projects. “The communities incorporate them into a five-year development plan. Lodge money goes into one pot, and the executive board, which consists of one elected member from each community, prioritizes which projects to fund.”

Gishwati: The Forest of Hope

The rising sun illuminates majestic Symphonia trees with bright red flowers, towering above the moist forest floor that is home to giant land snails and mud-colored frogs. Spectacular giant tree ferns, known as Ibishigishigi in the Kinyarwanda language, grow in clusters along the Pfunda River. This is Gishwati, where an international team of dedicated people is trying to save and restore 1500 hectares of African forest that almost disappeared.

From being considered hopeless, Gishwati has become the “Forest of Hope,” a place for testing
innovative conservation strategies that can be an international model for conservation in the 21st century.

There is a chimpanzee at the edge of the forest, looking out at a field of maize. The forest is small and the chimpanzee is hungry. If he goes out into the cultivated lands bordering the forest he can take some of the maize stalks and chew them, gaining valuable energy from the sugary juice. The chimpanzee also knows that people may chase him away if he dares to venture forth from his forest home in search of food. In the end, he takes the chance and moves into the field of maize. A local farmer, angered at the crop-raiding by both monkeys and chimpanzees, boldly runs forward and chases the chimpanzee from his maize fields.

This is a true story from Gishwati, where local people experience conflict with the forest’s primates over who eats the maize grown by the farmers. Now, in an innovative new approach seeking to reduce that conflict, we have helped local farmers switch to growing potatoes in the areas where they used to grow maize along the edge of the forest. Will this be a solution to the conflict? It is too soon to know for sure, but this is one example of how the Gishwati Area Conservation Program, known as GACP, is trying new approaches to save an African forest along with the chimpanzees and other wildlife that live there.

The Gishwati Forest Reserve is located in Rwanda’s Western Province, near Lake Kivu and less than a two-hour drive from the city of Rubavu (Gisenyi). It is also close to Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park, home of the endangered mountain gorillas. Although Gishwati is now a small remnant of what once was a much larger forest, the “Forest of Hope” remains a significant part of Rwanda’s heritage. Along with Nyungwe National Park, Gishwati is part of the Albertine Rift, a biodiversity “hot spot” of global significance.

Gishwati has a history of deforestation extending over the past 50 years, related to the establishment of ill-conceived large cattle ranches and the re-settlement of refugees following the war and genocide. In one sense, the forest became another victim of the genocide. Other factors include the establishment of agro-forestry plantations of non-native trees in and around the forest and increasingly intensive cultivation of smaller and smaller plots for subsistence agriculture by local people. These factors, taken together, resulted in most of the forest being converted to other uses, including what has proved to be unsustainable attempts to cultivate steep slopes prone to erosion and catastrophic landslides. It was in recognizing these unsustainable practices and in seeking to reverse the decades of conversion and destruction of the forest that the Gishwati Area Conservation Program came to be.

Protecting and restoring the Gishwati forest is a goal personally endorsed by His Excellency, Rwandan President Paul Kagame. Sharing his aspirations are a committed group of Rwandans working with a support team from Great Ape Trust, based in the United States. The program began with a meeting in 2007 between H. E. President Paul Kagame and Great Ape Trust Founder and Chair Ted Townsend. The two men pledged to found a “national conservation park” in Rwanda to benefit the climate, biodiversity, and the welfare of the Rwandan people. The Gishwati Reserve was chosen as the site of the park-to-be. Since 2007 we have made significant progress, working in respectful partnerships with the national and local governments and with the communities surrounding the forest.

These accomplishments include a 67 percent increase in the size of the forest achieved through demarcation of legal boundaries and annexation of illegally occupied land. The chimpanzee population has grown from 13 to 15, with the birth of two infants in the past year. This is probably the first increase in the size of the chimpanzee community in 40 years. Local understanding and support for conservation have increased dramatically, as evidenced by a steep decline in illegal activities observed in the forest.

Eyes sparkling with excitement, hundreds of children gathered last September at the edge of the forest for a special celebration. Dancing, drama, poetry, and sports competitions all were dedicated to protecting Gishwati. “It was astonishing to watch the enthusiasm and to see how the children took real-life experience and their new knowledge of the environment and put them together,” says Dr. Benjamin Beck, Great Ape Trust Director of Conservation. Working with 13 schools and many local cooperatives, we are committed to a community-based approach to biodiversity conservation that addresses the needs and aspirations of Gishwati’s people.

Dr. Becksums it up eloquently. “We realize we cannot save chimpanzees without helping people and we can’t help people without saving chimpanzees.” Gishwati embodies the challenges of conservation in the 21st century, where natural landscapes have already been dramatically altered and urgent human needs must be addressed sustainably. We have mobilized a team of eco-guards to educate local people about the benefits and importance of protecting the forest. The six eco-guards monitor the forest through daily patrols as restoration work proceeds. Hired from the communities surrounding the forest, the eco-guards received professional training in Volcanoes National Park and carry no firearms.

They teach local people how together we can save the forest, for the benefit of both people and wildlife. In 2008 the “Forest of Hope” began research on the Gishwati chimpanzees to determine precisely how many chimpanzees remained, discover their travel patterns, how they used the forest, and what foods they ate. Working with a dedicated and skilled team of research and field assistants, the research program is employing many local people.

Later this year we anticipate welcoming visitors to Gishwati. This new eco-tourism program will bring economic benefits to communities around the forest and expand opportunities for both visitors to Rwanda and for Rwanda’s own citizens to enjoy the natural beauty of the country.

People who have visited the mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park or seen the chimpanzees or monkeys in Nyungwe National Park may also be interested in spending some hours on a guided hike through a portion of the Gishwati forest or in excursions to visit beekeepers, artisans, traditional healers or villages where the forest’s former residents, the Batwa, now live. This program to protect and restore the “Forest of Hope” represents the best aspirations for Rwanda’s future, including her people, forests, and wildlife.

For more information contact:
Email: pclay@greatapetrust.org, asetka@greatapetrust.org or nyiratuzam@gmail.com
Website: www.greatapetrust.org

Iby’Iwachu Cultural Village in Kinigi

By Jonathan Nkata

It was a Friday afternoon when I boarded the bus to Musanze district, formerly known as Ruhengeri. This is one of the most famous places in the world, renown for its mountain Gorillas. When most people visit Ruhengeri their main purpose is to go Gorilla trekking but I have fallen in love with the beautiful scenery that is filled with ever-green, cool weather, abundant fresh air, and friendly lovely people. In the previous issue of The Eye Rwanda, our cultural article talked about former poachers who had embraced cultural and ecological tourism. So I went up the mountain, a height of about 2200 meters above sea level, to experience and learn more about the Iby’Iwachu Cultural village, a new Tourism destination in Kinigi.

The people in this community all have different cultural backgrounds. Some are pygmies who were naturally forest dwellers who depended heavily on poaching and gathering fruit from the forest in the national park, while other local residents were peasant farmers who supplemented their daily survival by encroaching on the resources in the Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda. Therefore relocating and resettling these people outside the park and trying to change their behavior caused an incredible amount of conflict between the National Park authorities and the local people. What is amazing is how the local people, who were against the policies of wildlife and environmental conservation, have turned around to appreciate, embrace and add value to the tourism packages of Rwanda. It has been a long process of sensitization, dedication, and commitment by a group of people headed by Edwin Sabuhoro from Rwanda Ecotours. The whole process began by setting up a council of elders from the community, which is estimated to have a population of 1500 people. Once the elders had come up with the concept they invited other families to join in then it was a matter of educating the younger generation in all of the households.

What does the cultural village have to offer?

The major attraction at the Ibywachu Cultural Village is a replica of the king’s palace, the second of its kind in the country. It offers a lot of history where you can learn all about the cultural norms and taboos of ancestral behavior. Once inside, the main house is grass-thatched with many poles supporting the roof. Each pole has its own norms associated, and in the middle, you have four fireplaces. This is where the parliament was where the king used to meet with the chiefs to resolve the issues of the kingdom. There are also two doorways; one which was used by the king and the other by the rest of the people. The palace also has a mini-museum where old collectibles like coins, cups, plates, knives, spears, and shields are displayed.

At the palace, there is an opportunity to meet Lulengwa who is a traditional healer who has been practicing local medicine since childhood. He told me that all his great-grandparents had been traditional healers. Lulengwa plays a vital role in this village by treating fellow community members with local herbs that he collects from the surrounding bushes. You can imagine this community without a Clinic or hospital and he boasts of curing diseases such as skin ailments, impotence, easing labor pains, malaria, food poisoning, stomach worms, and mental disorders. The hospital is about 20kms away and there is no ambulance, so if Dr.Lule’s prescription fails then referrals are made to Ruhengeri hospital for further treatment. It’s a memorable experience to watch the traditional healer performing his tasks.

The traditional folk dancers at the cultural village are stunning. The smiles of sheer joy are evident on their faces as they move to the rhythm of the lyrics – I found it very interesting to watch. As traditional Intore and Ekinimba dancers (all of whom have been active poachers for centuries) share their amazing traditional dance and drum sounds clapped with gorilla sounds integrating what humans and wildlife miss in their search for inter-dependence. The drums are kept in a special hut and are placed on the ground in a circular shape in the middle. The drummers light a fire to keep the leather on top well stretched, enabling the drums to produce a good sound. At night it’s always cold so you get seated in the King’s house around the fireplace where you are entertained with solo auditions while the harps can be heard. In the King’s house, you are served local beer which is brewed from bananas and sorghum.
The former poachers also perform shooting skills using bows and arrows, displaying their skills used in hunting. It’s amazing to see how they can aim to hit a bamboo shoot at a range of 80 meters away, and hit it. They also display other items that were used for poaching as well as narrating their encounters with elephants and various other wild animals.

Some of the community members acquired skills from their great-grandparents in iron black smelting. They show the traditional ways of iron smelting, and how they used to make arrows, spears, and knives which were essential tools of their homesteads.

The transformation of the community from poaching to cultural tourism has involved organizing themselves into a group of ten, each group handling a particular task and being trained in modern agricultural techniques. The groups have been provided with tools like hoes and machetes plus hybrid seeds that yield better crops. Preparations are underway that will enable the community access to better markets rather than selling to middlemen who offer them lower prices.

The animal husbandry group has been received via donations, hybrid goats and chickens too rare for commercial purposes. They’ve faced challenges in keeping these animals because they’ve been accustomed to eating game meat all of their life. Due to the various intervention and sensitization programs, they have realized the importance of progress and modernity.

The school has only one classroom under a grass-thatched shelter and one teacher has been hired to help teach English to the children as well as the elders. Teaching English to poachers who wish to tell their until now, untold story is empowering to the local people and is the foundation for their sustainability and preservation of their history. It’s not all about giving people a fish in order to feed themselves but rather a way of teaching people how to fish to sustain themselves.

The most important aspect is conservation and embracing tourism. This cultural village has been developed to help the community understand the need and benefits of environmental conservation. Your visit to this cultural village contributes a lot to change the lives of different people.

Each visitor to the village pays US$20 for all the activities in the cultural village. Camping for a night at the village costs US$20, which all goes towards the village fund. Forty percent goes directly to the activities, while the other sixty goes into the village fund (or bank), after which the village committee decides where to invest the money amongst projects such as paying health insurance for families, buying high-breed seeds, sponsoring children, and buying scholastic materials, and developing small scale businesses, not only to boost their food capacity and to deal with their scale economies but also to start enterprising to benefit from tourism and be part of the conservation efforts to save the endangered species in their surroundings.